Tiananmen square - 5 June 1989

Albert Kahn

Albert Kahn was a French banker, philantropist, art lover and photography maecenas. In 1908 he decided to use the recently invented color photography technology (yes color!) to document the world in images. He hired renowned photographers to travel the world and photograph people high and low, landscapes, cityscapes, buildings.

An amazing project that went on from 1909 to 1930. The legacy is remarkable, and remarkably unknown. Probably because it is French rather than American or British...

His big project was interrupted by WW1, but that did not stop the photography. He continued, which has given us an unbelievable collection of WW1 images in color. Just look at these pictures of colonial conscripts from Algeria, Senegal and Indochina. Fighting for the French on the fields of Flanders, in Verdun, at the Somme. Amazing from more than one perspective...

True color photos; no post-coloration, no present-day digital manipulation. It's the real thing: color images almost a century old. Truly amazing.




There's a fantastic book on Albert Kahn and the photo's:
http://www.albertkahn.co.uk

Ministeck

My oldest friend commented on one of my blogs on Brezhnev, that Leonid's breastful of medals looks just like that 70ies children's "thing with the small bits of plastic that you lay pictures with on a white little board", and of course he meant Ministeck! Yes! Ministeck! I had forgottten about wonderful Ministeck, but it all came back. The long hours of nittygritty work with these frustratingly small pieces. The warming satisfaction of the result to show to mom and dad. God how many hours and days did I spent with Ministeck. Loved that stuff as a kid. Melancholy strikes me down!

Billy Reid

After a quick flyby Jeffrey's, I went and took a good long look at the Billy Reid store on 52 Bond Street (corner Bond Street and Bowery) today. Very nice store, nice staff, nice collection. Interesting guy. Originally a Southener, from Louisiana, he happily plays the southern comfort card. One t-shirt reads Make Cornbread, Not War. His shirts are fabulous, as are his piquet polos and some of the jackets. I also saw some nice khaki desert boots. Billy Reid won the 2001 CFDA Menswear Designer of the Year Award, and looking at his collection it is all quite obvious: Steven Alan, Michael Bastian, Tim Hamilton, Thom Browne...all great...and please add Billy Reid to the list in case you hadn't already.

I bought a black t-shirt with deep-burgundy print that says Ole War Skule; Louisiana State University's nickname - apparently i lieu of all the all american warriors the school has brought forth, a pink piquet polo and a nice checkered shirt.











http://www.billyreid.com

Herr Judit

Also had a look at Herr Judit, a store for 2nd hand exclusive brands. Saw some nice Comme des Garcons shirts, lots of Ralph stuff, lots of Eton stuff. A bit of Gant and Acne. The store has an interesting concept: you actually can hang nice 2nd hand pieces there (of course they will have to approve the piece), and when it gets sold, you as the still-owner get a commission. Facinating concept; but I'm not sure whether this is sustainable. Didn't like their leather accessories though; they looked like newly and poorly manufactured copies of nice 70ies and 80is pieces. Still, if you're looking for nice 3-5 year old exclusive clothes at a very reasonable price (for example a superb Comme des Garcons linen shirt at ca. 500 Skr = 50 €) this place is sure worth a visit.

Herr Judit, Hornsgatan 65, Södermalm , Stockholm www.herrjudit.se

Beyond Retro

Spent some time during Saturday afternoon in the Beyond Retro vintage store on Åsögatan on Södermalm in Stockholm.

Found and bought a very intriguing blue and white Lacoste tracktop. It looks early 70ies and carries some interesting necklabels: a Chemiste Lacoste label with a blue croc, a label of IZOD, including the words by Odlo of Norway, and a third necklabel carrying the words Odlo, Made in Norway. Fascinating! A Norwegian Lacoste Tracktop!

Some Googling revealed the following: IZOD Lacoste was a brand name licensed by Lacoste to IZOD from 1952-1993. While IZOD was already established in America, the name "Lacoste" was added for prestige and introducing "Lacoste" to the American market. IZOD/Lacoste hit its peak popularity in the late 70's. Odlo of Norway was a Norwegian Skiwear company that had a license to produce Lacoste/IZOD apparel for the Norwegian market in the 60ies and 70ies.

Also bought a 60ies shirt made by GANT Shirtmakers for Nathan's Men's Shop in Galveston, Texas, USA. The shirt type is called The Hugger. With some very cool necklabels.

http://www.beyondretro.com

Deeply depressing

This image, taken during one of the earlier years of the War in Iraq, has a profoundly depressing effect on me. Looking at it still makes me feel enormous anger!

This Iraqi father in his jallabah and slippers with a black sack over his head, sitting in the hot desert sand behind barbed wire as a prisoner of the occupation forces of George W. He is holding and trying to console his little son next to him. So very angering and depressing.

Somehow...

...somehow, this image fills me with an enormous sense of hope and optimism for the world.

The Ultimate Bling Bling Lover: Brezhnev (cont.)

Brezhnev was well known for his love of medals (he received a total of 114). In December 1976, for his 70th birthday, he was "awarded" the hero of The Hero of the Soviet Union. The award, the highest order of the Soviet Union, is normally only given for heroic feats in service to the Soviet state and society. Brezhnev received the award, which comes with the order of Lenin and the Gold Star, three more times in celebration of his birthdays. Brezhnev also received the Order of Victory, the highest Soviet military award, in 1978, becoming the only recipient receiving the order after the end of World War II. Brezhnev's controversial award was, however, revoked posthumously in 1989 for not meeting the requirements for the award.

By comparison today's Russian leadership looks rather tame....
Ah... where did those days go....? The days of Leonid "MedalMad" Brezhnev, Konstantin "NonEvent" Chernenko, and Nikita "TableBanger" Krushchev...

Immortal cinema - Withnail and I

Silent Shout

Waltz with Bashir

We went to see the Israeli film Waltz with Bashir last Saturday evening at Zita Cinema in Stockholm. 

The movie is about the Israeli war in Lebanon in 1980. It's told from the perspective of some rather traumatized and alienated individual soldiers. At the heart of the story are the massacres at the Sabra and Shatila refugee camps in Beirut.

It's a cartoon movie, but that's something you fail to take notice of already after a few minutes. It's a truly beautifully made movie. The drawing is magnificent; the poetry of the images and scenes just fabulous. It's also well told, incredibly captivating and moving. It is also a deeply disturbing movie. 

The atmospere of the movie is highly claustrophobic and haunting. Borderline psychotic; the soldiers are high on drugs and so is the movie. It brings Apocalypse Now to mind, but less embellished, more naked, more honest. 

Strongly recommended. Very strongly recommended.

Zarautz 1970ies

In the classic Basque resort town of Zarautz I spent many of my childhood summers. Chocolata con Churros on the promenade, the wild waves of the Gulf of Biscaye, the surf dudes, the peninsula of El Rato always on the horizon, the pelota playing, the red berets, the always present ETA grafiti, the nightly raids by the Guardia Civil, the traditional dinner of paella at nostalgic Hotel Duce (now long demolished), and on the beach the megaphone announcements in Basque, always followed with es karrikasko - thank you. 

Any guess?

So who is this guy? Any guess?

This is Sirhan Sirhan, the Christian Palestinian who on 5 June 1968 shot and killed senator and presidential candidate Robert Kennedy at the Ambassador Hotel in Los Angeles. He is serving a life sentence at California State Prison, Corcoran.

Euskadi Ta Askatasuna

Mercenaries - Katanga 1961

Katanga

In June 1960, The Belgian Congo gained independence from Belgium, and was renamed omitting "Belgian".

Independence proved to be chaotic and civil war erupted with the two main factions being supported by the USA and USSR in opposition. The United Nations mounted a peacekeeping operation.

The richest province, Katanga, with its natural resources including copper cobalt and uranium, declared itself a independent state. This secession was led by Moishe Tshombe, supported by the Belgian owned mining company and an army of European mercenaries, among whom the infamous Colonels Schramme and Denard.

In The Congo, Joseph Mobutu lead a military coup which overthrew the government of Prime Minister Patrice Lubumba. By 1963, the dream of an independent Katanga was over and it was renamed Shaba or Shabasa, and the capital Elizabethville was renamed Lubumbashi, and integral part of The Congo. later named Zaire.

In its brief period of independence, Katanga issued a beautiful gold coin of 5 franc.

The obverse design consists of a large bunch of bananas, quite a rare symbol on any coin. On the large flat raised border is ths single word KATANGA. The reverse design is a large "Katanga cross", and the inscripion 5 FR BANQUE NATIONALE 1961.

A Katanga cross was a form of ancient money used in this area from about the tenth century until about 1920, and called "handa".

Connie

The most beautiful airliner in history? The Lockheed Constellation, here in the livery of the KLM in 1949.

Whyred

Three purchases during the weekend. Just had to.

A great pair of Samie the Shoes blue canvas and suede shoes;

Rain the Jersey, a great dark burgundy raglan piquet polo,

Bosmans The Knit: a beautiful, extremely thinly knitted, navy blue zip up cardigan.

http://www.whyred.se

Our Legacy

Almost next door to Nitty Gritty on Krukmakargatan on Södermalm in Stockholm lies a (the?) Our Legacy store. Never saw a store dedicated to this up-and-coming and very interesting Swedish brand before. Beautiful retro feel racing bike in the window.

Our Legacy makes very nice stuff; Grandpa feel, nice contemp-interpreted sportswear. Incredible relaxed style. Very nice make. Great details. http://www.ourlegacy.se

Nitty Gritty

Krukmakargatan 24 in the Södermalm district of Stockholm. Nitty Gritty. A cool multibrand store. Feels a bit like a very small Barneys COOP. Swedish brands like Whyred and Acne can be found, but I also found a rack of Steven Alan shirts, and some very nice pieces by Woolrich Woolen Mills. http://www.nittygritty.se

Jesus Quintana

NY Times: Riding the It Factor

It has plenty in common with recent extravagances. Like the Range Rover or the Sub-Zero fridge, it has a solid frame designed for function. Like a Louis Vuitton trunk, it has a chic design and a patina of history stretching back to the 19th century. And like a bottle of San Pellegrino, it evokes that genteel way of life that Europeans are always going on about.

This new It object is the glossy black Dutch bicycle, its design unchanged since World War II. Increasingly imported to the United States and starting to be seen on the streets of New York (and in the windows of at least one clothing store), it appears to have everything a good craze needs. That includes a hefty price tag — usually between $1,000 and $2,000 — and a charming back story about how the bikes have been an indispensable part of the picturesque Dutch cityscape for decades.

...continue reading this article at http://www.nytimes.com/2009/04/16/fashion/16CODES.html?_r=1&ref=fashion

The Man in the Hathaway Shirt

Coolest shirt ad ever? Ran in the 1960ies in American magazines, created by David Ogilvy for classic shirtmaker Hathaway.

70ies graphics

Regardless of what you may think of the political messages, these are just some absolutely beautiful pieces of graphic propaganda art.

The Biggest Smile on the Planet

London 1995. Deborah "Skin" Dyer lead singer of Skunk Anansie photographed by Anton Corbijn.

Misdemeanors continued

1973. Leonid Brezhnev gives US actress Jill St. John the eye at a poolside reception in California hosted by President Nixon.
This guy...

Crimes and Misdemeanors

A photo of two world leaders. One a mass murderer, the other a pathological liar. Crimes and Misdemeanors. One of these two gentlemen ended the war in Vietnam, the other started the one in Afghanistan.

To freely quote Roger Waters: here's two prime candidates for the Fletcher Memorial Home for Incurable Tyrants

Anne Frank in a Palestinian Keffiyeh

I've always been a great lover of urban stencil art, and this is one I am particularly fond of. I photographed it off a wall in Amsterdam OZ some years ago.

Sweet Anne Frank in a Palestinian Keffiyeh.

It so strong visually, combining two symbols of antagonists that have been at eachothers throats for four decades, yet it doesn't feel wrong or aggressive; it's actually an image of hope and peace. Strangely. Kudos to whoever made this one.

...and clearly i am not the only one who's noticed; this Anne Frank stencil has also appeared on the streets of NYC:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/nickcalyx/867349732/

Jean-Léon Gérôme

This French painter is seen by many as the father of Orientalist painting, an art movement during the period of the Second Empire in France, depicting the Middle East in a highly romanticised way. Very popular from the middle to the end of the 19th century.

Gérôme painted many wonderful pictures of odalisks and eunuchs, of janissaries and palace guards, the interiors of mosques, harems and hamams, but my favourite is this one. It is called Arabes Traversent Le Désert, Arabs Crossing the Desert.

Do click the image to see it in much higher resultion. It has such unbelievabe atmosphere.

Giant Russian Helicopters

Helicopters. The Americans flew Bell Hueys in Vietnam, immortalized in all those Vietnam war movies. We Europeans have a few helicopter companies as well, but in the arena of Helicopters it is the Russians who rule and always have. Hell, the largest US helicopter company is called... Sikorsky! The USSR (and its successor state Russia) are home to a helicopter company called Mil, named after founder Mikhail Mil. This company designs and manufatures giant helicpters. Helicopters many times larger than anything the West has ever come up with. Just look at this first picture of a Mil Mi-10 Harke, first in Soviet service in 1963, it could lift 20 tons.













Then consider the largest helicopter ever built, the Mil Mi-12 Homer from 1968. Only two prototypes were ever built. 37 meters long, and two rotors with a 35 m diameter each. Wow!












Finally the Mil Mi-26, the heaviest helicopter ever. In service since 1983, more han 250 built. The workhorse of the Soviet Air Force, used heavily in the Afghanistan war.

Steven Alan

...and while checking out Michael Bastian, might as well take a quick look at Steven Alan. His reverse seam shirts are just absolutely fabulous. I bought one at Barneys COOP in Miami Beach some months ago, and it's become an instant favourite since.

http://www.stevenalan.com

Michael Bastian

Michael Bastian has been nominated for the 2009 CFDA Menswear Designer of the Year Award. It's his third nomination and with a bit of justice in this world he'll get it this time.

His style is restrained magical contemporary sportwear. He's going to do for us today what Ralph Lauren did for our parents 40 years ago. Check him out:

http://www.michaelbastiannyc.com/

Rock El Casbah

Mineral Water from the Black Castle of Opium

Pure Mineral Water from the mountains outside the ancient city of Acroënus. Grass Green Glass Bottle. Believe it or not, but it comes from Afyon in Turkey. Afyon, opium in Turkish, was a centre of the opiumtrade for many years. The full name of the place is Afyonkarahisar, the Black Castle of Opium.

I love the little Red Crescent logo; the muslim world's equivalent to the western Red Cross, and the white stencil print. It has this look that's almost medicinal. The back of the bottle has this endless list of mineral content. It looks authentic because it is. Unchanged for decades. Just absolutely beautiful.

Mineral Water in a Green Glass Bottle from the Black Castle of Opium. How cool is this? Served only in Turkish teahouses, and hopefully soon available at Amsterdam purveyors of rare herbs.

ZIM

ZIM. The predecessor of the ZIL. The Cadillac equivalent Limousine of the Soviet-Union. This is how members of the Politburo moved around Moscow in the 50ies and 60ies.

In the early 90ies, as the Soviet-Union was crumbling, I worked in newly independent Georgia, where I had the pleasure and privilege of being driven around for a few weeks in the original ZIM Limousine of Josef Djugashvili, the former Communist great and most famous son of Georgia, known to the world as Josef Stalin.

I even went to the Georgian city of Gori in this car, and visited Stalin's birthplace. The great dictator was not surprisingly born in a shack; it's still there (probably rebuilt). A hovel of lime earth with a door and one window. They also had his original - rapidly corroding - train wagon at the Stalin museum. Tried to borrow that one too, but too bad...